Film Center oh HEY!

$12.95 for brunch in Hell's Kitchen isn't too unreasonable, even for a cheap chap like myself. But when for another $10 you can get unlimited champagne, bellinis, mimosas, and screwdrivers to go with your delicious food, then you've stumbled on a gold mine. Especially if you happen to be the type that takes advantage of anything free or unlimited to the very last drop. Which I am.

Some advice, though: if you decide to switch drinks (which is totally allowed), you may suffer some extra wait time. The waitresses only come around every so often with each pitcher, so declining a refill on your champagne in favor of a bellini may be a delicious decision, but it's not a cost-effective one.

From the food side of things (they serve food too? Yes! They do!!), everything is good. Omelettes and egg dishes come with a decorative fruit boob (an orange circle with a perky little raspberry in the center). The Monte Cristo is sumptuous, but should not be mixed directly with champagne except by the strongest of constitutions.

The atmosphere at this eatery is delightful. I've been twice now - once on Easter Sunday, and again this past Sunday right before the pride kick-off rally in Bryant Park (an excellent place to sun one's drunk self after brunch, and only a few short blocks away). I would say the percentage of gay clientele, judging entirely from a haphazard gaydar scan of the seating area, hovers somewhere between 70 and 95. A favorite pasttime of mine involves guessing the equipment of a lovely raven-haired waitress with a faint Adam's apple.

Be warned: the place seats only 85 and is understandably popular. If you have a party over 4, call ahead. While they don't take reservations, you can at least see if they have seating available. And champagne.

Film Center Cafe
635 9th Avenue (btwn 44th and 45th)
www.filmcentercafe.com